Day 19, Arusha to the Serengeti


Our day started earlier than anticipated. We got in and to bed at about 1:30, but with very hard pillows (I know, I’m a princess, I finally got up and got the travel pillow that I stowed and used it to sleep with…that was at 3:30 am). Then at 6:22 am, we got a call from the front desk. Instead of our flight departing to the northern Serengeti at 10:30 am, it was leaving at 8;30 am. Yuck, we needed to get up and get breakfast! Oh well 3 hours is better than none at all!

Tuk tuk on the road to the regional airport
A crossroads in Arusha

We got to the regional airport in Arusha by 7:40, got checked into our flight and had an on time departure. We were on a small dozen seater. As it turns out we were seated with a small group going to their new Bush Camp in the North Serengeti. We had a lovely chat (Dan and Tim talked Hockey as they were from Minnesota and he was cheering for the Oilers as well.)

Lots of interesting sights our flight as well. We flew over the great rift valley that defines the continental rift between Africa and India, we flew over Africa’s only live Volcano, Ol Doinyo Lengai or Mountain of God in Maasai (not active today, thank goodness) as well as the Mara River, the sight of the Wildebeest crossing trying to beat the crocodiles during the great migration.

Continental rift
Mt Ol Doingo Lengai
Cozy set up with our travel companions

We landed on a short dirt strip at Kogatende and everyone got out, only for us to find out that we had another stop to make! Back onto the plane we got, and flew another 25 minutes on to Seronera, which is a little farther south, but still part of the Northern Serengeti. The great migration won’t be making it up that far north until July or August. We had our fingers crossed to see at least the start of it a little farther south.

Our landing strip
The correct airport at last!

Once at the correct airport, we met our guide, David, who would be driving and guiding us over the next 6 days. Poor soul! David explained our itinerary for the day and suggested that instead of going on to our hotel for lunch and then back to the park, he had brought some boxed lunches with him and we could stay in the park and make the most of our viewing day. We thought this was a great idea, so we were off! But not until we got the lay of the vehicle. There was a monster cooler filled with water, 2 USB charging ports in front of our seats, a pop up roof that allowed us to take panoramic photos and Maasai blankets in case we got chilly! At 25C that wasn’t going to happen anytime soon!

We were no sooner out of the airport property when we encountered our first herd of Wildebeest. About 300 or so. Small compared to the 1 million that do the annual migration, but impressive nonetheless! Just another km down the road we came to a pond where we saw a number of hippos lulling in the water, with beautiful herons standing around the pond edge. Another pond edge visitor was a crocodile. Apparently no threat to the adult hippos or the cranes…just don’t leave any baby hippos behind when they go out foraging at night!

Gathering of Wildebeest next to the airport
Our first Hippos
Crocodile sunning himself on the far Shore

David had his keen eyes peeled for “sausage” trees. These unique trees grow quite thick and wide branches, perfect for lions to have their mis afternoon nap! He spotted one in the far side of the plain. The next challenge was to try to get closer. If I said the roads in Etosha were bad, you ain’t seen nothing yet! Here, they are still getting some rain, and the recent rains have have washed out the dirt tracks leaving hugs ruts, mainly filled with mud making it necessary to go off road and get around the hazard. This seemed to happen every 50 meters or so! No worries, our diligent driver found the path that got us close to our first lion sighting!

Belly full and getting into the heat of the day, it’s time for a siesta!

After that, we headed off to a location for lunch. A number of safari vehicles with their passengers were there enjoying the grass hut shelters. We got our boxed lunches and I looked up and a tourist approached and asked if this was where the 2 lions were? I thought he was joking, but no, when we looked there were 2 more lions lying in another tree. When the lions came down from the tree, they sat in the grass for a little while, but when they disappeared, we decided it was time for us to make our way along as well. (Note, this picnic area actually had flush toilets with running water!!!)

Can you spot our lunch companions!
Here they are staring at us after their nap!

We headed out to see more game, and managed to see a secretary bird, some plains antelop, zebras, elephants and giraffes. Dotted through out you could see small herd of wildebeest as well.

Secretary bird
Grazing elephants with a baby

Then came the mother sighting of wildebeest! We came upon this herd and stop for a while to take photos, and then started to drive on. With our a word of a lie, we drove for a good kilometre before we got out of the major part of the herd! Just breathtaking! The wildebeest give birth in the south during the rains in December thru February, then in March when the young are old enough to make the journey they begin grazing along the freshly grown grasses on the Savanah’s. They eat everything and move on until they complete the cycle and are back in the south once again. They will end up venturing north into the parks in Kenya before turning back.

Just a small picture of the horizon of Wildebeest

After this sighting we saw some more elephants, some hippos, giraffes with 2 small ones and a more.…yes even another lion!

Adult giraffe with two young in the background
A baby Impala
Part of the Impala Harem. One male impala can care for up to 150 females and young.
A male and female ostriches
The female lion is sleeping in a sausage tree. Look at her belly. She still has some spots which indicates that she is still young

Soon it was time to get our tired bodies to our hotel for the next 2 nights. When David turned off the road toward our camp, I didn’t know what we were in for. The dirt road was severely washed out and I had my doubts at times that we were going to make it, let alone what this road was leading us to! As it turns out, the rains are just finishing and the road will be regraded shortly!

Welcome home
Welcome home 2
Don’t go off the road! the building in the background belong to a cattle farmer who has quite a sizeable herd on this farm.

We are staying at the Kuoom Bush Camp. A facility with 12 dome like structures accommodating guests and a large reception area at one end and a restaurant at the other. One of the rules here is that you do not venture off your dome without the protection of one of the lodge staff. They accompany us to our meals and to reception. Makes sense… while we’re outside the park, there’s no fences to keep animals in our out… perhaps we’ll have some elephants serenade us in the morning!

Kuoom Bush Camp reception
Our home away from home for the next two nights

Time to head off to dinner, and hope that I can get a viable wifi signal to post tonight! Will chat again tomorrow!

Sunset view from our cabin.

Categories: An African Adventure

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