Day 20, Sahagun to Reliegos

What a day!  … But let me start with our last act of the previous evening… How could we celebrate our achievement without champagne!!! Believe it or not, this was Lisa’s first taste of any alcohol (trust me, she literally stopped when it touched her tongue… Oh we have soon many things to teach you grasshopper!)

 It was forecast to be a scorcher today (for May), and since we were doing over 30 k today, we decided to a) leave at 5:30 AM! and b) Dan and I sent our packs ahead to our next Albergue via Jacobtrans (should be called godsend!!!) having our own room for just the 4 of us meant we could get up, turn the light on and efficiently do footcare, packing and planning…we will have about 7.5-8 hours on the road today, so best to get an early start.

 The super heroes at 5:30… Ready to tear up the trail!!!  Full of energy and ready to go… Here we come dark ( and delightfully cool) world!

 Believe it or not, we had been walking for over an hour when I took this!  By 8 am we had walked 9-10 km and we’re ready for breakfast… Joining Dan, Judith, Lisa and me are Brandan (Ireland) and Marus (Latvia). It’s a true United Nations on this road…

It’s amazing how a slice of tuna veggie empanadas and 2 Cafe con Leche can kick start your day!!! Little Lisa of course has 3 cakes, and tries to tell us she “never” eats like this at home!!!! What the heck… Everyone’s pants are getting bigger regardless of what we eat or drink!

The magic or morning means the serenades of a variety of spring birds, roosters and of course dogs ( I think early morning peregrinos throw off their morning rituals!!)  it truly is remarkable to witness the sounds, sights and spring smells ( fresh cut hay) as you walk in the dawn! … even the cuckoo was calling out to us at 6 am!!! Do you think it was trying to tell us something??? ( it also called out at us today at km 30, when there was no village in sight!  If nothing else, the birds do have a great sense of humour!)

 By 10, we had reached our next break point… This time a Limon and a banana! We met up with Judith (the speedster) and Brandon, and Lisa in El Burgo Ranero, and apart from refreshments we also saw a grand display of storks!

The next stage was 13-14 k, and straight through massive agricultural areas… Our path travelled along side a small country road, and with little traffic and vast vast horizons this was the day for true reflections…

 I thought of the dear friends that travelled with us for a few chapters of our journey.

 Gjertrud was with us 24/7 for the first 4 days of our travels, and having more time and feeling she was holding us back, she urged us forward after Roncevalles… Our last hugs were in Kubiri!!! We miss her… If any readers can give us an update on her progress in the comments it would be greatly appreciated! We think of her often!

Next our thoughts and prayers go to “wee” Sandra from the northern highlands in Scotland… Her incredible strength of spirit coupled with her intense compassion was amazing…her sense of humour was soon infectious…. Our last night together we laughed before bed until we had cramps!!! Her foot injury took her out ( how odd that this healer would be slowed down by an injury, but perhaps that was a sign that she needed to slow down and do the Camino on her own time)…we miss her stories, her laughter and her heart… Looking forward to seeing her in Scotland, and sampling some award winning Fish and Chips!

Walking through the farmland and the memories we never cease to be amazed by the people we meet… A poor Asian young man was hobbling with his backpack… One foot in his boot and the other wearing a croc…yet without hesitation as we passed to see how he was doing he simply smiled a very broad smile and said its only a few more kilometres to the village, and then without hesitation he wished us a Buen Camino!  The depth of humanity is remarkable whether it’s with those we travel most closely with, or those we share a fleeting experience… Our feet, legs and minds may be suffering, but we see grace in so many ways… Truly a gift!

Speaking of gifts, Dan has decided to title his published memoirs of this trip, “Women I Have Slept with on the Camino”,  tonight our dorm has 6 bunks, 5 women and Dan… I think he enjoys it, but I’m not so sure his bunk mates have the same enthusiasm for the dulcet sounds emitting from him in the middle of the night!!!

Our dinner tonight was true Peregrinos style.  Judith, Lisa and I cooked, and Dan was in charge of clean up.

A wonderful vegetarian spaghetti with Serbian salad and Rioja wine ( most expensive in the shop at €4.25!)

Supper is done and cleaned up (btw, the day doesn’t end when you arrive at the Albergue after walking 8 hours… You need to set up your bed, get showered, wash clothes( and pray the dry in time for packing) if cooking, do a groc shop, and if blogging… Get your butt in gear.  Once that’s done we can plan for the next day…

Tomorrow our plan is to walk to Leon, where Dan and I will enjoy the comforts of a nice hotel, and will meet Judith and Lisa who will be either staying at a Pension or an Albergue.  Still not sure if Judith will take the time for a layover, but the rest of us will… We’ve made up a day, so are expecting to get to Santiago on the 27th, God willing….the thought of fluffy white towels will propel my walk tomorrow!  Until then my friends… Good Night!

Categories: Camino De Santiago


  1. All this time I thought the storks you were talking about were metaphorical… haha! Glad to see you’re hitting your pilgrim stride! XXXO!


  2. What is the wire looking thing in one of the middle pictures Pat? It looks very interesting.
    I am sure you will carry the people you have met in your hearts forever! Blessings, Karen


  3. Damn the defiant – You have got my admiration for what you are accomplishing . I am particularly fascinated by the close bonds that you have created with others on the journey. Like many challenges in life , you make close lasting friendships during the toughest of times – maybe this is the spiritual side of the journey. Keep up your spirits and strength- there are a lot of folks back home whose daily read is your blog. Lots of love, Michael ( the brother that would stick forks in his eyes rather than walk that far – only kidding )


  4. Yes, like Michael said, there are many of us reading your blog. I look forward to each days entry and the beautiful comments from your friends and family.


  5. Two weeks to go; how the time has flown by on this side of the pond. By the time I have written this you will have done most of your walk today and be at that hotel you wrote so longing about. Cheers from G&G


  6. It is such fun living your fabulous trip (read walk), savouring your meals and enjoying your wine with you both. The beauty of the country side and the warmth of the friendships that you have made are an added bonus. Keep up the good work. Heather Turchyn


  7. It has become my daily ritual to read your daily reports. What an incredible physical and spiritual journey. As always admiring your fortitude and determination


  8. The family is enjoying these adventures so much. In fact, Liam and I have decided we need to make this journey together after he graduates from university. We now have 4 years to mentally and physically prepare for it… and it sounds like we will need it as well.


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