September 24, Hermanville-Sur-Mer to Thelus


Today we transition from the Second World War to the First World War. Our day’s trip will involve driving between 200 and 300 kms with several stops before we get to our destination in a small village of Thelus. We chose this BandB because it is within walking distance of Vimy Ridge.

Leaving the quaint town of Hermanville-Sur-Mer. More fog than sun this morning!

Because we would be doing some rural touring our charging plan had to be well researched. But before we got to the WWI sites, we made a brief stop in the beautiful city of Rouen. Rouen is the capital of Normandy and home of the beautiful Notre Dame Cathedral. This cathedral captured Monet’s heart and he painted it no less than 30 times!

We parked the car in a parking garage at the Old Market Square, just a short walk from the cathedral. I’d swear they were carving up parking spots in this garage by the square inch!

Dan trying to get out of the car after parking. Side mirrors were folded in before parking! Thank goodness for backup cameras!
The centre of the old market square has a memorial cross commemorating the spot where Jean D’Arc was burned at the stake. The modern building to the left is the Church of St Joan of Arc.
We walked up the main. Road towards the cathedral from the square and saw some beautiful historic timber frame houses. There are over 1,000 historic homes in Rouen’s city centre

As we walked on we saw Gros Horlage. A giant astronomical clock built in the 14th century spanning across a renaissance street archway

Gros Horlage

A short walk further we saw the beautiful cathedral of Notre Dame.

The Cathedral of Notre Dame. While is was originally built in the 12th century. The iron spire is France’s tallest at 151 metres.
The tallest spire is hidden behind and is ongoing repairs. The gothic architecture is simply stunning.
Beautiful detailing inside
The side aisle shows the vaulted ceiling detail and n this massive structure.

As we strolled back down the street I discovered a gelato shop that I had visited in Lisbon many years ago! Amorino Gelato’! I thought I’d need to go to Paris for the closest shop.

Outside
Artistically carved petals of handmade gelato, made from the happy cow’s in Normandy. Truly amazing!

We were soon back on the road heading towards some selected memorial areas in the Somme. Our first stop was Lochnagar Crater, where once the bloodiest battle site on the western front. This site is maintained by a private veterans foundation and offers a great memorial to those who were there and to the vision of peace for the future.

This crater, spanning over 100 metres was made by an underground explosion in an attempt to debilitate the German forces here. It is the largest man made crater in the world.
This moving sculpture, “the lone chair” commemorates those that would never return home.
The essence of the Lochnagar Vision

From there we drove to a very moving memorial to those who fought at Beaumont Hamel- the Newfoundland Memorial. Before Newfoundland joined confederation they mustered 780 soldiers and sent them off to help the British during WW1. Their first stand was at Beaumont Hamel where they suffered immeasurable losses with 80% of their force killed in that action.

Here we see the Caribou Monument. Designed based on the badge cap of the regiment, a caribou, standing on rock and scrub representing home for these troops

We asked along the memorial preserve, one of the largest preserved battlefields in Europe.

From atop the memorial you can see the scarred battlefield complete with preserved trenches.
As we walked along we found this model of the Danger Tree, sculpted and placed by students of Memorial University in St John’s Newfoundland . It is said that a few of the Newfoundland regiment made it past the initial barbed wire defenses and then had to take cover behind a small ridge next to this ravaged lone tree, located half way across no man’s land.

Time to head to our next BnB and a quick recharge enroute. It’s been a long full day and I’m looking forward to getting settled into our new home. Tomorrow, more battle memorials. Until then!

Categories: Northern Europe: Beer, Birthdays and Battlefields

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